Day 3: Cusco

After this little "snack" of Peru in Lima, we headed for Cuzco (or Cusco), our gateway to the real adventures we were looking for. Just the views of the Andes from the aircraft were promising already. We flew with TACA airlines (1 hour), which was reliable, professional and not as cheap as we would have liked, but still affordable, worthwhile and cheaper than other companies. And far more comfy to get to this part of the country! There are also buses, but it takes around 17 hours!

 

One of the things we were a little worried about was the altitude sickness (soroche, as it's known here). It causes some symptoms, such as headache, loss of appetite, nausea or trouble sleeping, that can be felt at high altitudes above 2400 m (8000 ft) due to the lower level of oxygen. Travellers going to Peru are advised to start their trip first at sea level places and then go up gradually to higher towns. For example, it is definitely not a good idea to go to the Titicaca region directly (3800 m). It is recommended to take it easy and rest on the first days to get your body used to the new conditions, but we were not patient enough for that. Our curiosity got us started at the very first minute. Although Cusco is situated at 3400 m, we didn't feel any of the effects! (except for once in my case). However, no matter how fit, well-prepared, brave or he-man you are, effects can hit you for the hell of it (in that case, chewing coca leaves works wonders).

Our hostel (called Dream Hostel) was up on a hill. We were picked up at the airport, warmly received and offered a coca tea. The icing on the cake: a simple but nice, cozy big room just for us. First impression passed by far.

We dropped our stuff and went down to the centre of town to explore the former capital of the Inca Empire. The difference in temperature here compared to Lima was remarkable, and the weather rather fickle (warm, sunny...and then chilly and rainy all of a sudden). Anyway, we walked through the streets that still had remains of Inca walls on the base and colonialist architecture on top (some Inca walls are fake though). The original Incan construction was much more impressive than the colonialist copies because the Incan walls had no grout and the odd shaped stones fit perfectly like snug puzzle pieces! Once we reached Plaza de Armas (the main square as you already know) we planted ourselves at the tourist office to get our boleto turístico (touristic ticket), which is compulsory to visit come places around the Sacred Valley. It includes many sites, such as Inca ruins near Cusco, a smaller nearby town called Pisaq, museums in Cusco...(not Macchu Pichu :)) and it costs around 30 euro/40 dollar for us , the foreigners. Yes, nice rip-off, but at least everything else is ridiculously cheap in Peru.

 

Inca and colonialist architecture

Plaza de Armas

 

After lunch at a local place again (soup, of course!), we walked into a typical -and touristy – colorful textile Andean market,where we got some more extra clothes: gloves, socks and cholitas (pullover) made of alpaca wool, supposedly. Well, they were warm! You can get good prices if you master the art of bargaining.

Back again in Plaza de Armas, we came across a parade of school kids dancing all dressed up in elaborate colorful native costumes, a spectacle which seemed to be a welcome just for us.

It was already dark and freezing but, excited to make the most of our boleto, we attended an Andean dance show. We had to wait in line in a cold rain while the show was delayed a bit, but we eventually got in and we enjoyed it very much. At the end of the show we were all invited to get on stage and dance. Well, yes...touristy, but still nice!

Time to hail a taxi (well, you don't really need to...they are everywhere hooting at you), go back home and have some dinner, just in time for me to lie down on my bed for a few secs because I suddenly felt sick and dizzy (yes, soroche probably). I don't know whether it helped or not, but I chewed some coca leaves and it soon wore off to never return :)