Day 5: Sacred Valley II (Pisac)

Time for more hiking, so we headed for Pisac (or Pisaq), around half an hour away from Cusco, crammed into a combi (a van) that wouldn't set off until all seats were taken. This is a common system in Peru.

views from the combi on our way to Pisac

Pisac is divided into two parts: the tiny colonialist village, down in a valley, and the Inca site, a former royal estate, up on a hill. We first walked around the village and approached the main square, well-known for its vivacious outdoor market. It is the only touristic attraction, along with the archeological site. It is a shame that polluting tour operator buses have to invade its main street and square (rather small for the big buses), breaking the locals' harmony, to drop off lazy tourists right there instead of them walking from the entrance of the village, which only takes 2 minutes!


Pisac
main square
dye for clothes
"No urinating in the Street. On pain of arrest"



The ruins are 5 km (3.1 miles) away uphill, so we decided to take a taxi – after bargaining hard for a while - and then hike back down through the footpaths. We thought we would only see some ruins (not without good reason) but we didn't expect the landscape to be so great as a whole. The site is not very big and the ruins are scattered around in between the hills and terraces that overlook the valleys. Though a bit dizzying sometimes, having to walk paths and climb up steps by the precipice, it was a pleasure to descend with such spectacular views, turning more breathtaking at every step and enjoying background music played by some local flautists. The best thing about it was us being the only ones doing it (thanks to those lazy tourists).

 




 
 
 


 
hiking dowm. Q'allaqasa, the citadel, in close-up
and Pisac in the background

Intihuatana, the Temple of the Sun
 

Once back in town after hours of delight, we had lunch in a small but cozy, local restaurant. A typical Peruvian dish (and expensive) is cuy, that's to say, Guinea pig. They served it fresh in this place. They were so fresh that they even had many of these inocent lovable rodents still alive in a kind of farm, with a castle, paths and everything. Such a cruel ending...Of course we didn't try it. As the experience seemed to be all about animals, a feral female dog in heat came in through the open doorway and hid by our table, trying to hide from several desperate randy dogs, also feral, which followed her in from the street...What a romantic lunch!

cuys

chicha

woman baking small pasties



We had to be back in Cusco by 19.30 because we were going to be instructed by a guide for the trip to Macchu Pichu in two days' time: how the trip was going to be, the roads, things included...But we'll cross that bridge when we come to it.

We were starving so we went to fill our bellies at a charming restaurant near our place that we happily discovered days before. Again we had one of the heavenly soups, sopa criolla. We were becoming big fans of the Peruvian gastronomy! We spent the rest of the dinner crying with laughter over a squatter prairie dog (sorry, only few people will understand this) that lived in our hostel...

Time to sleep. More hiking the following day!


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