Ok,
time to tell how to get to this heavenly well-known Inca site
worldwide:
- From Cusco to Ollantaytambo by train, and then a train to Aguas Calientes, the closest village to the site and its gateway. This is by far the most comfy but also most expensive way to get there. Veeeery expensive, and touristy! The fact that the train is run by a Chilean company doesn't help either. Definitely it was not the option for us.
- Doing the four- or five-day Inca trail on foot (there's also a short one of 3 days). Humm...yes, very tempting, but it was expensive and we didn't have time for that. Maybe next time.
- Hiking from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes, along the railway and going through some tunnels. A six-hour trek...Well, we love hiking and this was clearly the cheapest option, but we were not sure about this one.
- Another very cheap but also stressful (and a pain in the ass) option: bus to Urubamba, then a bus to Santa María, then another bus to Santa Teresa and then on foot for a while..The schedule combination wasn't suitable at all and it would have taken more than one day.
- Hiring a van trip for 11-12 people: 6 hours through the beautiful Andes mountains, going through Santa María and Santa Teresa and then a two-hour hike as far as Aguas Calientes, where we would spend the night until the big day next morning. Food, hostel and ticket to Macchu Pichu included (150 dollars, you can get it cheaper though). Exactly! This was the one (and also Hobson's choice). You have to get your ticket in advance if you don't want to risk it and see yourself crying your eyes out like a runny-nosed child at the site doorway, so this was a good option. They will plan everything for you.
Fortunately
we were the first ones to be picked up by the van at our hostel, so
we could choose the best seats in the van for this long trip. The
rest of the group was collected at Plaza de Armas.
For
the first three hours we travelled through uphill winding roads. It
was a bit cold, rainy and misty, but then we started to go down the
mountains through a more tropical landscape (cloud forest) for the
next three hours. This time the road was not asphalt but an unsteady
stony narrow path along the very steep hillside where the driver
drove rather fast and hooted the horn all the time to warn any other
drivers as he approached each sharp turn. From time to time we came
across some pedestrians walking along the side of the road, sometimes
carrying supplies, who appeared out of nowhere, coming (or going)
from the nearest town, which was miles and miles away. We also saw a
bit of a landslide on the other side of a deep valley. This part of
the trip was really scary (stunning though), we could have rolled
down the mountainside at any time, but all we could do was nervously
laugh....I guess there was no choice.
| second part of the road trip (along the hillside) |
We
stopped to have lunch in Santa María, a tiny muddy village in the
middle of a jungle-like spot where we tried the alpaca meat. It was
very lean. After this brief respite, we continued on our crazy road
trip until we reached the point where we would start the hiking part.
It was a relief to have the control of ourselves back and stretch our
legs for two hours, surrounded by a mixture of mountainous and
tropical landscape all the way along a river. Along
this walk, we saw plants with bunches of still-green bananas,
bird-pecked avocados covered the ground, and deep orange Birds of
Paradise flowers added color along the path. Mosquitos were also a
small bit of a bother, but not that bad. At one point we passed by a
small hut/house with chickens pecking around. A local girl of, we’re
guessing, about five years’ old greeted us as we passed through. It
soon got dark and we had to go through a narrow tunnel where a train
had just gone by. God, that was a close call!
| hiking part |
We
finally made it to Aguas Calientes, our final destination that day.
We were so happy that we all thought we deserved some drinks, so we
had some beers and cocktails before dinner. Wrong! The bumpy and
winding trip had played tricks on my stomach, but I wasn't yet aware
of it. Beer was definitely my worst enemy...
After
dinner, where we were instructed by the guide once again on Macchu
Pichu, we immediately went to bed as we had to get up at 04.00 a.m if
we wanted to see the sunrise from the long-awaited paradise. That was
when I started to feel a bit sick...My body was fighting against
something that I thought at first was food poisoning because of the
symptoms. Thanks, Murphy...I curse your bloody law!
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